My Paris : #2 Around Marché d'Aligre

ardoisealigre

copyright : marchéd'aligre

Overall, The East side of Paris is not a favorite spot for tourists. I understand that first-timers tend to focus on the famous must-dos and must-sees of the Capital, but I consider that not visiting l’”Est Parisien” is missing the Real Paris.
I am quite familiar with the 12th arrondissement and particularly the Place d’Aligre and its surroundings. I really love that part of the city, it is very lively, cosmopolitan and full of excellent gourmet shops, wonderful bars and restaurants and there’s always something happening there.

Let's start the visit with the Marché d'Aligre

How to access there ? Metro line 8, exit at “Ledru Rollin” station.You will find yourself on Rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, an interesting street in itself with lots of shops (international as well as French brands) but do not hesitate to visit the numerous little covered “passages” along this street with plenty of workshops (carpenters, cabinetmakers,…) . Very charming...

coveredpassage

Then take rue d’Aligre on your left, that will lead you to Place d’Aligre where the market is.

Marché d’Aligre is one of the most typically Parisian markets. It is made up of two parts : the covered market called “Marché Beauveau” and the open-air market on the square d’Aligre with produces, flea market,…There are both overcrowded, well supplied and very cosmopolitan : you will find many produces from Africa and Asia. Aligre is known for its cheap prices, but you have to be careful about the freshness of the produces.


  beauveau aligreoutdoorcharcuterie fruits

After the market visit, you will probabbly need a break, for that you will have to choose between several cafés with wonderful terraces. Now, this is where you have to go for a great people-watching (many gorgeous “bobo*” Parisians among Aligre customers, lol!). At some cafés or wine bars, you can have a glass of wine with a wine-barrel as a table and listen to live bands (during spring and summer).

Market open from tuesday to friday, from 9 am to 1 pm then from 4 pm to 7.30 pm
Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm , then from 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm
Sunday from  9 am to 1.30 pm


baron_rouge

Le Baron Rouge, my favourite wine bar in the neighborhood. 

Goumet shops around the market

moisan

One of the most famous Parisian bakery is just across the market : Moisan, known for its organic bread.

 Moisan : 5 place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris

boucheriedesprovinces

Boucherie des Provinces (Butchery) , on rue d’Aligre is famous for its charismatic owner, Mr Dru. He will advise you about the best meat of the day (“today, you have to buy Veal ribs, they are at their best") .

Boucherie des Provinces, 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012 Paris.

bl_sucr_0 bl_sucr_1

bl_sucr_2

A few meters from the market, in front of Trousseau Square, a new bakery has recently opened : Blé Sucré.

The owner used to be Pastry Chef in a famous high-end hotel in Paris (Le Bristol) and Wow, his desserts are fabulous.

He proposes cheap menus (1 sandwich, 1 dessert, 1 drink for 5.50 euros).His wife is behind the cashier and she is an absolutely delightful person !

Blé Sucré : 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012 Paris


Restaurants :

Two of them are located on Rue Cotte, very close to the market.

gazzetta

La Gazzetta : This trendy restaurant has a new (swedish) chef and the reviews are much better now ! The food is a mix of mediterranean and asian recipes. About 30 euros per person.
La Gazzetta : 29 rue de cotte, 75012 Paris

 

sardegna_a_tavola_119102

Sardegna a Tavola : tiny, overcrowded, smokey, noisy, so-so service but Great Italian (from Sardegna) Food !
I went there once and had wondeful pasta with grated poutargue (fish roe, also called "mediterranean caviar) and it was to die for ! Actually, this restaurant, despite its drawbacks, is a lot of fun !
Sardegna a Tavola : 1 rue de cotte, 75012 Paris

restausquaretrousseau

Le Square Trousseau : A bit smokey and noisy too, but an institution in the Eastern part of Paris.A wonderful terrace in spring and summer. A bit expensive, though.
Le Square Trousseau : 1 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012 Paris

bar___th__terrace

Le Bar à thé : non-smoking restaurant, great selection of teas and pastries.

Si senor : nice spanish tapas and wines. The chef, Valentin, is an authentic spanish-born.

Both restaurants are located on 9, rue Antoine Vollon, 75012 Paris and both have (small) terraces overlooking Square Trousseau.

pausecaf_0

A bit further (5 minutes walk), is my Favorite restaurant in the neighborhood : le Pause Café. I have been there 4 or 5 times and have never been disappointed. Each time, I wanted to ask his recipes to the Chef, but was too shy to actually do it !! The Pause-Café looks more like a café than an actual restaurant and the owners describe their restaurant as a “cantine de quartier” (neighborhood joint) and that is so true ! No chichi there, an efficient service; a very pleasant covered terrace and the food…Yummy !

pausecaf_1 pausecaf_2

The food choices are quite short, which, for me, is an excellent indication about the freshness of the produces. You can have salads or quiches or you can choose from the “plats du jour” on the blackboard. I advise you to do the latest, you will not be disappointed. I had a veal rib, with cider sauce, baked apples and potatoes, the best green beans ever, the rib was huge and it was absolutely wonderful ! My daughter chose a beef fillet with French fries. Look at the pictures, don’t they look great. ? 

As a dessert, we shared a very simple but really incredible lemon-curd Tart. The pastry was home-made and tasted great and the lemon curd was to die for !

beeffillet vealribpausecaf_ lemoncurdtartlet pausecaf__terrace

Le Pause-Café : 41 rue de charonne, 75011 Paris.

From Aligre Market, go back to rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, then take a left and walk 5 minutes until you cross rue de charonne.

* Bobo is a contraction of two words : bourgeois and boheme (bohemian). It describes wealthy Parisians who often have intellectual jobs (movie directors, photographers, artists,..) and who have specific consuming habits (for example, they are passionate about ethic shops and organic food).


18

  • ((((( Hello )))))

    Just tell you, that's a beutiful website ) I love the way you write ) It's so nice ) And what a fantastic picture )

    Thanks a lot

    other picture here : http://www.trivago.fr/paris-36103/hotel/marche-d-aligre-712041
    Posté par SSP (Trivago), 12 février 2008 à 18:32
  • wonderful!

    I know I am late to your blog, but I am coming to Paris again in October and I really want to see the fabulous flea markets -- I found the best information on the Marché d'Aligre here and I look forward to sampling the food in some of the restaurants and cafes you mentioned. Merci beau coup!
    Posté par Diana B, 02 juin 2008 à 20:18
  • Great blog

    Hi Anne, I am researching our Paris trip in April and this is great. We've been visiting for a few years now and are interested in finding some of the less tourist-frequented places so your blog is perfect! We haven't visited the 12th at all so this will definitely be on my list for this visit, thank you.
    Posté par Carolyn, 27 mars 2009 à 22:02
  • I have been visiting various blogs for my term paper research. I have found your blog to quite useful. Keep updating your blog with valuable information...Regards
    Posté par Term Papers, 10 mars 2010 à 09:57
  • i love your site

    i very adore your own writing type, very useful,
    don't give up and also keep creating as it simply just well worth to look through it,
    impatient to looked over much of your current stories, regards!
    Posté par Creassejawrex, 20 mars 2010 à 09:44
  • Hello, I will be in the Place d'aligre neighborhood from October 20-27. I am familiar with the brocante at the market. Can you suggest other trocante, brocante or sales in the area?
    many thanks,
    Jackie
    Posté par Aicun13, 12 septembre 2010 à 23:55
  • Hello,
    I am planning a 7 night stay in Paris in May 2011.I am staying in La Garenne Colombes.Can you tell me about how far that is from the heart of Paris,and what would be the best way to travel in/out of the city.Do you know that area?Is it a small village,is it full of tourists?Also,I am interested in going to an actual flea market that sells old/vintage jewelry,antiques,furniture etc.Can you suggest something?I would like to go someplace that does not see too many tourists and I can get a deal.The Marche d'Aligre looks like more food,flowers,cheese than is a flea market.Also,are there any museums that I should not miss?Any suggestions about restaurants would be helpful too.

    I love your blog!Glad I found it.

    Thank you

    Tina
    Posté par tina udelson, 17 février 2011 à 03:02
  • Je suis tombe sur ce site par hasard et je le trouve tres bien ! Bonne continuation !
    Posté par Sam, 07 mars 2011 à 13:48
  • Flea Markets

    I am going to Paris for the first time and will be staying with friends in the 12th arrondissement, love the idea of public markets. Wondering if you could recommend other good flea markets that sell vintage jewellery such as cufflinks etc... Thanks you
    Posté par laramblas, 11 mai 2011 à 06:47
  • When I lived boulevard Voltaire, I used to go weekly to Marché d'Aligre. Early in the morning is the best time, it's no crowded, there is the beautiful fruits and vegetables .
    Posté par noémie, 21 février 2007 à 12:07
  • Anne-

    I had a few of these places on my list for my next visit, glad to get more info on them! You never mentioned there was a flea market in the 12th...ohh la la!!!
    Posté par Robin, 21 février 2007 à 13:23
  • Hello
    on of the best place in Paris. I lived there few years and your photos reminde me à lot of things.
    Posté par céline, 21 février 2007 à 15:18
  • Tu me donnes envie de sortir descendre de Montmartre pour aller me perdre dans le 12 eme .
    D'ailleurs à quand un billet sur Montmartre ?
    Si tu veux mon aide , cela sera avec plaisir .
    Posté par lili63, 21 février 2007 à 19:19
  • OK Lili, avec plaisir. Bon là je vais m'absenter jusqu'au 5 mars, mais après pas de problème !
    Posté par Foodiefroggy, 21 février 2007 à 19:46
  • comme moi .
    bonnes vacances et à +
    J'ai repondu à ton comment .
    En resumé je suis du genre branchée sur la prise electrique avec des gros coups de pompe ...
    Posté par lili63, 22 février 2007 à 10:54
  • franchement , je suis très gourmande et les assiettes me donnent vraiment envie !!
    bravo pour ton blog !

    alexandra
    Posté par alexandra, 22 février 2007 à 14:54
  • Hey Anne, As a foreigner here, I sometimes get carried away and pretend to be somebody I am not. I'd be happy to go with you to the Pause Cafe and pester the chef about his secret ingredients with you.
    Posté par phread, 28 février 2007 à 10:41
    • Yeah, let's do that !
      Posté par oki, 20 janvier 2013 à 21:13

Poster un commentaire

Newsletter et notifications

* Entrez votre email pour recevoir les newsletters et / ou les notifications de nouveaux messages